Having a litter of pups can be a wonderful experience but occasionally it’s  fraught with complications. Vet REBECCA BAILEY says worth taking a few moments to look into it as thoroughly as possible to try and minimise any surprises.

Why do you want to have a litter? Some people are of the opinion that it is ‘good’ for a bitch to experience having pups. There is no obvious medical benefit to the bitch by doing this.

As a rule you should be going into breeding with the view that you would like to improve the breed by producing a pup that is better than either the sire or the dam. Some qualities to consider for example include temperament, speed, hunting ability and conformation. There is no reason for you to keep a pup but try and make sure that you have a few people in mind who are interested in pups before you commit yourself. Unfortunately there are too many dogs that end up unwanted and in rescue centres.

Plan ahead…

Do you have time to rear a litter of pups until the age of six to eight weeks? Remember that the bitch as well as the pups will need continued attention throughout this time. You will need space not only to keep a whelping box but then for the litter to run, exercise and play separately from the dam. Think about how you will address cleaning and feeding issues as with large litters this can be challenging.

Many breeds now have a selection of health screening recommendations from the Kennel Club (KC) in conjunction with the British Veterinary Association (BVA). These are designed to try and identify dogs that may be capable of passing on certain traits which are likely to cause problems for future generations.

Three areas that are considered important are hip scoring, eye testing and elbow grading. There is now also the availability of DNA testing for certain conditions, advice can be obtained from the Kennel Club regarding the recommendations for each breed.

Three important tests

The BVA/KC Hip Dysplasia Scheme

• This assesses the degree of dysplasia (abnormal development) in each hip joint
• X-rays are taken of the hips and sent away to a panel of assessors
• Each hip joint is scored between 0 – 53. The ‘hip score’ is the total of the values given for each joint – 0 being best, 106 being the worst.
• Dogs to be used for breeding should have a score below the breed average
• To be scored a dog must be at least one year old; each dog is only scored once in its lifetime
• Costs include a fee for sedation/anaesthesia and X-ray from your vet then a fee to the BVA/KC for scoring the X-rays, currently this is £30.60

X-Ray of good hips

 
The hip score position

The BVA/KC Elbow Dysplasia Scheme

• This identifies the degree of elbow abnormality or dysplasia
• Each elbow is graded on a score of 0-3, (0 being best, 3 being worst). The dog’s ‘score’ is the highest value of either elbow (if one is 0 and the other 2 then the score for that dog will be 2). Only dogs with a score of 0 or 1 are recommended for breeding
• Dogs have to be at least a year old and are only scored once in their lifetime
• Costs include the charge from your vet for sedation/anaesthesia and X-ray then the cost to the BVA/KC for scoring which is currently £30.60, the charge for hips and elbows submitted together is £58.50

The BVA/KC/International Sheep Dog Society Eye Scheme

• This provides screening for inherited eye diseases in certain breeds
• Generally the best age for screening is before a dog reaches one year of age. Thereafter on an annual basis if they are to be used for breeding
• You must visit a vet who is an appointed eye panellist; details can be obtained from your vet
• The cost is approximately £33.70 per dog. Prices vary for example at game fairs/club bookings

Once the recommended health screens have been considered, think about the current health of your dog, check that vaccinations and worming are up to date. A fully-vaccinated bitch is important as she will be able to convey early protection against disease to her pups.

An unvaccinated bitch is more likely to produce a litter that may succumb to illness including one known as ‘fading puppy syndrome’. This is a complex disease that has no one single cause although several factors are thought to contribute, an important one being lack of protective immunity from the dam that can be provided by vaccination.

Be well informed…

A good breeder or stud dog owner should be able to give help and advice both before and after mating, if in doubt run through things with your vet. It is important to check that the pedigrees of both bitch and dog are compatible and that the correct time for mating is chosen. Usually this is between 11 and 14 days into the bitch’s season but can vary so the help and experience of a good breeder is invaluable. Remember that the aim is to breed from good stock to produce better offspring so don’t breed from anything with obvious defects such as overshot or undershot jaws or a history of hernias, for example, that were present from birth.

 

Make sure that when you choose a stud dog a contract is arranged between you and the owner of the dog regarding stud fees and mating. Many will charge a set fee but some ask for a pup or the price of a pup when sold. It is often the case that bitches can return for a second mating 24-48 hours after the first without extra charge, however there is no evidence that more matings produce more puppies.

Make sure that you confirm the arrangements if the bitch does not get pregnant first time – can you return for a second go free of charge or will there be another stud fee?

Calculate your expected costs carefully, some are necessities, some are optional extras and some may be unplanned. Examples include: KC/BVA pre-mating health screens, pre-mate test to check optimum mating time, stud fee, ultrasound scan to confirm pregnancy, additional food for the bitch, time off work for whelping/puppy rearing, wormers pre- and post-whelping, emergency caesarean, additional vet visits, whelping box, docking and microchipping, KC registration, advertising and puppy food to name but a few…!

Remember that with the current laws relating to tail docking it is important to check that you are registered with a vet who is prepared to dock. It is sensible to do this prior to mating, then you can avoid problems later on.

Work out whether out will need to buy any special equipment. A whelping box that is big enough for the bitch to lie flat out to feed is a good idea, also think about heat lamps and acquiring plenty of newspaper and old towels. Some people find it useful to have an outdoor pen so that the pups can go outside in good weather. There are many options.

Finally once you have worked out all of the above, make sure you will be able to register your litter, if this is what you want to do. The Kennel Club has a series of guidelines regarding registration. They will not register a litter from a bitch who has had six litters previously registered. They will not register a litter if the bitch was less than a year of age at mating or over eight years of age at whelping. An exemption can be applied for in the case of the eight-year-old bitch providing that she has had one litter previously registered and there is a letter from your vet confirming that she is fit and well to breed.
Remember that the Kennel Club makes a charge for litter registration so make sure you are familiar with all the details early on.

If, after you have considered all of the above and anything else anyone may mention, you still wish to breed, then enjoy it. If you are as prepared as you can possibly be, then that is all you can do and nature must do the rest.